Monday, June 24, 2013

Portugal (Sesimbre & Lisbon) June 5-8. 2013


 June 5

Arrived in evening. Our driver was waiting for us at the airport & it took approximately 35 minutes to drive south to Sesimbra, a beautiful coastal town. We drove over the 25th of April Bridge ( named after the revolution that took place in 1974) which looks very similar in color and style to the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco. It was built in 1966 by the same builder as the Golden Gate. On the far bank there is a statue that seems very familiar. It is a copy of the giant Christ the Redeemer statue that is in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. 
As we drove to Sesimbra, the geography is rolling hills with forests of many pine trees & even some eucalyptus... We also saw cork trees which are easily identifiable especially if they have recently been harvested. Portugal is the largest exporter of cork.  Cork is the bark of the tree and is harvested approximately every nine years. After the  bark is taken, the tree lives & regrows new bark. Cork is a beautiful tree and part of the oak family. 

Nice view from our room's balcony
Arriving in Sesimbre, we checked into our hotel, SANA Sesimbre & met up with our four other travelers & friends from Los Angeles. 

June 6 Sesimbra

 We are staying in Rm 408, on the upper floor of the hotel. The room has a small balcony with two chairs & a table and has a wonderful view of the beach across the small street. 

The guys before their ride
After breakfast at the hotel, a very nice buffet with hot foods which is included in the cost of our room, the two guys took off on a bike ride. Their first stop was the castle, a very steep climb up the mountain. They said the grade got up to a 20% climb on the way up. The ladies walked through the town and stopped to see the church which although very plain & un impressive from the outside, was very beautiful on the inside. After receiving a text from the guys, we walked down to the taxi stand & caught a taxi to the castle. The view was gorgeous & we especially enjoyed the inside of the church there whose walls were covered with the tiles which are famous, the blue and white tiles of Portugal which are called "azulejos".
The girls came by taxi!






We took the taxi further to a more northern beach & met the guys there & after deciding our lunch options were poor there, we headed back to the hotel. After the guys returned, we met up later that afternoon at the 6th floor Terrace Bar for snacks & wine. The view is lovely from here & you can see the port. There is also a swimming pool here tho we didn't take advantage. The bartender was very nice & let us drink our own bottles of Portugese wine without charge. 

(See my review of hotel at:  http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g227946-d229318-r163277913-SANA_Sesimbra_Hotel-Sesimbra_Setubal_District_Central_Portugal.html  )

We had made reservations at a cute little restaurant, Portofino which was about a ten minute walk from the hotel & located right on the beach. It had been recommended by our driver, Francisco & was owned by a relative, I think his brother. Our reservations were at 8 ( still early by Portugal standards). We were the only customers for much of the evening & as we noted throughout town & beach area, there is much preparation in anticipation of the summer tourist traffic which will begin soon. 
( See my restaurant review at:  http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g227946-d2275317-r163276967-Portofino_Restaurante_e_Bar-Sesimbra_Setubal_District_Central_Portugal.html  )
Flag of Portugal








Friday, June 7- Sesimbra & Lisbon

Picturesque sidewalks
After a nice morning walk down the beach in the other direction this morning & admiring the artwork & statues outside of the Sesimbre Hotel & Spa, we caught a ride with Francisco again, this time in a larger car because there are now 6 of us, into Lisbon.  

Our hotel here, Tivoli Lisboa, is a spectacular 5 star hotel. This is where we are meeting up with the Viking River Cruise's  people. Our room, # 742 is on the top floor and has a very nice view across the city all the way to the Tagus River. 


After a quick session with the tour leaders, we went down to the hotel Brassiere for a small dinner, some appetizers & wine.

Saturday, June 8 - Lisbon
After a nice breakfast, we met up with our group on Bus C & our tour guide for Lisbon, Sandra. There are 40 people on our bus & there are three buses so I guess there are 120 on our tour, "Portugal's River of Gold" (the Douro River). This is a new tour for Viking this year & this is only the first month of operations. 

The first part of our half day tour was driving past a few sights including the Parliament building & the president's home. We then drove down to the river Tagus and made our first stop at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the famous Tower of Belem. The tower was used as a lookout against invading forces when it was built many years ago. 

After a brief stop at the monument to explorers next to the river, we drove to the Jeronimos ( pronounced Geronimo) Monastery ( a Hieronymite monastery ). We didn't get to see the part which used to be the living quarters for the nearly 300 monks but we did get to see the cathedral and the cloisters. After our visit we had a bit of free time so we walked down the street past the famous Pasticeria do Belem( known for their custard pastries) and their giant line to another little coffee spot for some morning espresso. Though they also had the custard pastries, we resisted.  We sat with another couple that are on our cruise & who are on bus B and are from Oxford, England. There are quite a few guests from the UK in this trip & also some from Canada. 

The next stop after a very steep drive up a hill to the Bairro Alto (Old Town) was a walking tour through the very narrow & twisting streets of the Alfama. There was a lot of decorations being set up as this coming weekend is the Festival of St Anthony. Tho many people associate this saint with Italy ( where he died), he is greatly celebrated & honored in Portugal because this is where he was born. 

We chose to be dropped off in a big square about a 1/2 mile from our hotel & grabbed a nice lunch at Pastelaria Casa Brasiliera. I had a delicious salad of fresh fruit, meats & cheeses. That along with some Vihno Tinto (red wine) & some melone & prociutto made for a very filling lunch.
After an interesting walk back to the hotel (some of it under an umbrella because it had started to rain), we rested up a bit in our room, met up for some wine with Darlene, Vivian, Donna & today's birthday boy, Bill. 

We had spent some time researching restaurants and had found one that is a short 10 minute walk, with great TropAdvisor.com customer reviews, so we made reservations for 8pm (it was that or 9:45).  The name is Solar dos Presuntos. We ate on the second floor. The place was very busy & obviously very popular & it didn't seem to be crowded with tourists... It seemed more of a nice place with many locals. The usual selection of very good appetizers were on the table awaiting us. Here as throughout Portugal, any bread, cheese, dips or other appetizers on the table when you sit down are there to be purchased. We generally have bought them because they have been outstanding & make the time before dinner arrives easier. 

Ordering wine from an iPad
Amazing Seafood Tower
I ordered the salmon fillets & Gary ordered the roast duck which a reviewer had said was the best they'd ever tasted. Donna & Bill ordered an amazing Seafood Tower 56euros for two people.... But it was his bd!!! We were very happy with our choice & would happily go back there again. The service & food were very good!

Tuesday, June 4, 2013

Heading off on another great trip.....

Today is June 4, 2013 and we have just left our summer cottage in Elkhart Lake, Wi, driven to Chicago's O'Hare Airport and are preparing to leave on a month adventure to Portugal, Spain and Italy. We have never traveled to Portugal or Spain before & I'm quite excited about getting to spend some time there seeing new things. We will also spend a few days in Italy, one of my very favorite travel locations!

The trip will be broken up into three segments. The first part will be a couple of nights in Sesimbre (just south of Lisbon, Portugal on the coast) & then 9 nights on a Viking River Cruise on the Douro River with friends that we have traveled with previously. One of the best things about traveling is meeting people who also love to travel & explore and finding great friendships that way. The four that we are meeting up with on the Douro cruise we have met on past trips on the Royal Clipper on a trip from Barbados through the Panama Canal on 2007/8 (over New Year's Day) and on a Viking River Cruise to China in 2011.   The Viking tour will have us staying in a hotel in Lisbon for two nights and then we will set up camp on the Viking Douro ship for 7 nights...... I love being on the water & I'm really looking forward to this part of the trip.

When we get off the ship on June 16th, we will take the train from Porto to Lisbon and there we will meet our cousins from Topeka for about a week of road trip into Spain. We will head off to Seville and spend three nights there, then head to Malaga via Gibralter spending four nights there. We are excited to spend time with our niece, Heidi & her special guy, Diego while they show us their home base. At this point our cousins leave & head back to Lisbon for the Rotary Club Convention and we continue on......

On June 23rd (I think...) Gary & I continue up the east coast of Spain spending a night in Gandia and then on to Barcelona for four nights. From there we will be flying to Pisa, Italy and driving to Siena for five nights to enjoy the July 2nd Palio and all the the pageantry that comes with that historic medieval horse race. After the race, it will be time to fly home to Elkhart Lake where we will arrive just in time to be able to see the annual 4th of July fireworks on the lake on Friday July 5th.... Yes, I'm excited and am hoping that I can keep a journal up during our trip this time... ;-))

Saturday, June 23, 2012

June 14-18 Sicily-Cefalu, Palermo & Taormina


June 14th - Cefalu, Sicily 
Sad goodbyes this morning as we departed our ship & took the transfer to the Catania airport to pick up our rental car, a small black Lancia. 
We drove through the central part of Sicily to our destination, Cefalu ( pronounced Chef a lu). Though we had some directions it took some time to figure out how to get to the rental place. There are many one way streets & our GPS didn't know about one in particular & tried to keep sending us that way....Gary turned into the street & realized that it had recently been turned temporarily one way due to some adjacent street work.... We finally were lucky and found Santa Barbara, the street where our rental apartment is located. From there we walked down into the town which is located on the other side of "the rock".
The rental office was closed so we walked down the street and found a cute little cantina (La Cantina di Cicerone & Lili's Club Wine Bar). When we arrived it was about 12:45 and there was only one other table occupied. Within 20 minutes the place was packed. The people here usually have late lunches & they are not a rushed lunch (this is when many close up their shops & go home for 2-3 hours for lunch & a siesta). We each had a nice salad and split a small pizza. As we left the cantina, we received a phone call from Sergio, our rental agent & we made the connection.. he drove down to pick us up & bring us to the apartment (we had missed an earlier text from him telling us to meet him there...).


Our unit has a wonderful view up on the hill. The patio/deck is almost as large as the apartment itself. The apartment and the furniture are quite simple but perfect for us. There are also a swimming pool and laundry facilities that are shared by all the renters in this building.. There are three floors and we have the top one (no elevator) so we assume there are 2 to 4 more below us.

View from our apartment's balcony

We ate dinner at a cute little beach side restaurant, Al Gabbiano in Cefalu... I had Prosciutto & melone, we split a chili garlic penne pasta, and I also had some stuffed veal & a tomato salad. We also shared a carafe of Sicilian Rosso with the meal. Quite good though you could tell that this restaurant is mainly aimed at the tourists that visit....

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June 15- Monreale & Palermo - private tour
After a drive of about one hour from Cefalu, we arrived at the parking lot where we had prearranged to meet our private tour guide for the day, Jackie Alio. We had found her name recommended on bestofsicily.com and had also read a few of her historical articles of the region. She had been very responsive to my emails since February. 

View from Monreale

We met with Jackie at the parking lot behind the  famous Monreale cathedral. This cathedral was completed in 1198 and is one the most beautiful I have ever seen. The incredible mosaic works are breathtaking. Jackie told us that there are 68,000 square meters of fine mosaic work here much of it in gold leaf. The scenes from the Bible stories of creation, Jesus' life & many of the apostles and saints are beautiful. I do wish that I had brought my binoculars though as I would have been able to see more of the details. (Tip: if you come, bring yours!)
The cathedral also has one of the largest pipe organs in all of Italy with 11,000 pipes, a Ruffati pipe organ. There is a free concert here every year in December.... that would be an excellent reason for a return visit. 
We also stopped for a few minutes across the street at the Monreale Duomo Cloisters ( http://www.paradoxplace.com/Perspectives/Sicily%20&%20S%20Italy/Montages/Sicily/Palermo/Monreale%20Cloisters.htm ) and admired the many columns there with artwork (& mosaic) unique to each one. 

Monreale Duomo Cloisters

After our stroll, we headed back to the car and drove into the old part of Palermo through the New Gate. It was so nice to have Jackie with us for direction & interesting insight. 


The head is there to prove how fresh the swordfish is

Heading in the right direction!

Everything looked so fresh & ripe


After parking at an underground parking lot, we walked through Mercado del Capo, one of the marketplaces that has been in old Palermo for hundreds of years. This one has been here for 800 years!!!

Jackie shows some nicely painted carts. Had hoped to meet artist but he was on siesta.

Our next stop was the Palermo Cathedral which is a very large complex & you can easily see the many influences in it's architecture over its long history that began in 1185. 

Back of cathedral shows Norman influence

Half of the massive cathedral

Other half of cathedral

Luckily were there to see the meridian at the right time!

We went into the Treasury and saw many cool goblets, silk vestments & the very famous crown of Catherine of Sicily ( which was found in her tomb in the 1400s). 



We were lucky to arrive shortly before 1 pm as there is a bronze meridian on the cathedral floor that shows the image of the sun through a pinhole in one of the domes. Since it was solar noon LAN time ( local apparent noon ) we were able to see its movement. 

Famous Catherine of Sicily crown

Chapel of Santa Rosalia,  patron saint of Palermo & where her bones are preserved



We also went downstairs to see the crypts. Many were old reused Roman crypts!
Next on the agenda was some lunch so we made a stop at Kaleido Cafferistoro for a quick bite. I had an eggplant sandwich which used the eggplant instead of bread. It was filled with ham, a bit of cheese, tomato & fresh basil. Very good & unusual... Thinking of trying to reproduce at home. 

Great eggplant sandwich

The next stop on our walking tour of old Palermo was the Norman Palace and the Palantine Chapel which was built in 1130. The chapel has many mosaics, some very similar to the Monreale Cathedral but not nearly so large an area as Monreale.


We were able to get an additional ticket to go underground to the area where some old Punic walls (from the time of the Phoenicians & Carthaginians) dating back to the 6th century BC have been uncovered. The Phoenicians  named the city Zis, which was later to be changed to Panormos & then Palermo. Interesting stuff!!



While still at the Norman Palace we were lucky to be able to visit the Hall of Hercules (named after the art there) where the Sicilian Parliament now sits. Luckily, they were not in session today but we still were not allowed to take any pictures there. 
A portion of the Fountain of Shame
Next on our walking tour was seeing the "Fountain of Shame" in the Piazza Pretoria. It was called that because when it was unveiled in the 1500s, there was much criticism because of the nude statues ( this was moved from the owner's place in Florence to his new place in Palermo during the Renaissance) & unfortunately, placed just across the way from a convent!!!!! 

Jackie & Bonnie on the steps of Teatro Massimo (famous Godfather location)




Our day was almost done but it was decided that we needed a gelato/ cannoli stop first. We stopped at Antica Pastceria Mazzara which has been in business at this location since 1909!!   Gary & I split a yummy cannoli and we each had a small cup of gelato. A sweet ending to a fantastic day......








Tip: If you ever plan to visit Palermo, I need to say that I very highly recommend Jackie Alio as a private tour guide. She knows her history & she made Monreale & Palermo come alive for us.   She was born in California & was there until age 9 and then moved to Sicily & has been in Palermo for 26 years. She is very patient, answered our many questions (& admitted to not having an answer to one which is a good sign in a guide.  Some will just make up an answer..).




Sunset from the restaurant tonight

Amusing... I've often thought of a pyramid also when I see people come back to the table from a buffet

Dinner in Cefalu along the beach tonight at Ristorante Pizzaria da Nino.. a typical Sicilian ristorante aimed mainly I believe to the tourists in the area. I did try swordfish for the first time & really liked it. Apparently, swordfish is the favorite fish of the Sicilians. I will be trying it again!

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At this point in our trip, I stopped keeping a journal but continued to take pictures. I'll share some of those with you now....   Also, keep your eyes open for Gary's photo album on Facebook of our journey.  His photos are amazing!

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June 16th - Cefalu, Sicily




Cathedral in Cefalu- less decorated than the ones in Palermo or Monreale


We were lucky, shortly after we left the Cefalu Cathedral, the cathedral was emptied because of a wedding. The bride arrived in horse and carriage to much fanfare. Gary got a great photo of her.


Leaving cathedral- had some gelato where the green umbrellas are located in photo

Peach & Limone gelato break!




Smoked Salmon & thin slices of sweet fresh pineapple (ananas) for lunch- amazing combo!

Clear beautiful waters


Bldg where we originally were going to stay, unfortunately, there was road work nearby

Dinner menu - not good pic but you get idea of prices

Delicious chicken liver with mustard sauce

Had swordfish rolls for main entree

http://www.ristorantelabrace.com/LaBrace/dovesiamo.asp?lg=en


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June 17th- Drive from Cefalu to Taormina via Villa Romana del Casale

Time to say arrivederci
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http://sights.seindal.dk/sight/456_Villa_Romana_del_Casale.html

Largest collection of ancient Roman Mosaics in the world & UNESCO World Heritage site, unfortunately, half of it was closed the day we visited....












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Taormina,Sicily

View from our room's little balcony over Corso Umberto in Taormina (Gate - Porto Catania)


The gelateria across the street from our hotel, Hotel Taodomus


Lamb!!! Yum!!!!
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June 18th - Taormina, Sicily

The rooftop terrace at our hotel. Breakfast was served there.







Beautiful place to just chill a bit



Taormina street scene

View of Giardini Naxos from Taormina

Mt Etna
Fresh squeezed blood orange juice... so sweet & good!
One of the many churches in town

We hiked up to old Greek theater 


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Sweet dessert - fresh pineapple!
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Arrivederci
My favorite!  Prociutto & Melone